Slap in the chops

Now you broke it, etc.. and how to make it better ....

Slap in the chops

Postby Beigebomber » Fri Aug 19, 2016 10:44 am

This one doesn't really count, because it wasn't even on a skateboard.

Was surfing yesterday (Seignosse, mid-tide, 2m thick swell). Waves were starting to get a bit dumpy and really shallow, so I decided to finish my session before I got hurt. It was that obvious something bad was going to happen - such slabby waves. So I took one last wave, got to the shorebreak, negotiated the explosion-drag-explosion section of that to the point where I was knee-deep.... Then got nailed by a sneak wave, flung underwater into the rail of my board, which caught me right between the nose and lips. Full-on nosebleed causing much screaming amongst the onlooking sunbathers, and a fat top lip that makes me look like a Kardashian.

Seriously, I'm going back to the skatepark. Far safer.
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Re: Slap in the chops

Postby irishlostboy » Fri Aug 19, 2016 2:52 pm

Yup. I kissed my surfboard badly a while back too. Chipped teeth. It sucks. Hope your board is OK. Ha.
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Re: Slap in the chops

Postby Beigebomber » Sat Aug 20, 2016 10:51 am

irishlostboy wrote: Hope your board is OK. Ha.

Yep, that was my first thought too. It's fine.
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Re: Slap in the chops

Postby Ben » Tue Aug 23, 2016 11:17 pm

I have a weird injury that has been responsible for a diet of no surfing or cycling for the past 2 months. Painful wrists. Not sure exactly what the issue is at the moment but the X-ray is due shortly. It is too painful to push off the deck or rest on the handle bars. I can cope with an absence of handle bar action but what with a poor spring and summer and then an enforced absence from the water, I am slowly going mad (and fat). skating is my only outlet but not falling off is imperative.

Sorry to hear you have both been kissing the deck. Unfortunately this stuff never goes away no matter how many hours you put in.
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Re: Slap in the chops

Postby Andrew_Culture » Wed Aug 24, 2016 10:14 am

Beigebomber wrote:This one doesn't really count, because it wasn't even on a skateboard.

Was surfing yesterday (Seignosse, mid-tide, 2m thick swell). Waves were starting to get a bit dumpy and really shallow, so I decided to finish my session before I got hurt. It was that obvious something bad was going to happen - such slabby waves. So I took one last wave, got to the shorebreak, negotiated the explosion-drag-explosion section of that to the point where I was knee-deep.... Then got nailed by a sneak wave, flung underwater into the rail of my board, which caught me right between the nose and lips. Full-on nosebleed causing much screaming amongst the onlooking sunbathers, and a fat top lip that makes me look like a Kardashian.

Seriously, I'm going back to the skatepark. Far safer.


I can understand about 83% of this, but I do hope you're not too badly borked!
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Re: Slap in the chops

Postby pete » Wed Aug 24, 2016 2:34 pm

I've skated the indoor place in Biarritz and the outdoor one in jean de luz so there's some good safe skate options 8)
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Re: Slap in the chops

Postby Beigebomber » Fri Aug 26, 2016 10:09 am

It's all fine now. Took a couple of days to get the top lip back to a normal shape, but it sorted itself out.

@Ben: Sounds a bit like tendon strain. Do you wear wristguards when you skate? If not, try 'em.
Also, very important: when you've fallen or bailed, don't use the palms of your hands to push yourself back up off the ground. Make fists and push yourself up on your knuckles. Unless you do all that already....
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Re: Slap in the chops

Postby Ben » Sun Sep 25, 2016 6:11 pm

Tendinitis is slowly getting sorted out. I am back in the water now. I felt like an old man on a surfboard until yesterday evening. I got my favourite reef/point to myself. The steeper waves on offer made the whole process easier to surf though I lost the customary amount of skin getting back in through the entry/exit gulley. :P

Cycling will resume when my wrist is completely ok.
Beigebomber wrote:This one doesn't really count, because it wasn't even on a skateboard.

Was surfing yesterday (Seignosse, mid-tide, 2m thick swell). Waves were starting to get a bit dumpy and really shallow, so I decided to finish my session before I got hurt. It was that obvious something bad was going to happen - such slabby waves. So I took one last wave, got to the shorebreak, negotiated the explosion-drag-explosion section of that to the point where I was knee-deep.... Then got nailed by a sneak wave, flung underwater into the rail of my board, which caught me right between the nose and lips. Full-on nosebleed causing much screaming amongst the onlooking sunbathers, and a fat top lip that makes me look like a Kardashian.

Seriously, I'm going back to the skatepark. Far safer.


I imagine that sw France has been pumping recently?
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Re: Slap in the chops

Postby Beigebomber » Sun Oct 02, 2016 3:22 pm

Ben wrote:I imagine that sw France has been pumping recently?


Oops, sorry Ben, didn't notice your question until now.

I'm not there any more, alas. I've been back in my full-time home in mid-Spain again since the start of September. Surinfg's a summers-only thing for me these days. Although I do spend July/August there every year, which is a consolation. Was quite a good summer this year - plenty of slabby days and not too many flat spells. Last year was epic though.

So I have no idea how the surf is in Seignosse right now, although it's the Quiksilver pro this week, so it'll be easy to find out on their webcast :)
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Re: Slap in the chops

Postby Jimmycakes401 » Sun Oct 02, 2016 3:24 pm

I've had quite a few interesting surf board smacks. Never fun
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Re: Slap in the chops

Postby Ben » Sun Oct 02, 2016 7:04 pm

Beigebomber wrote:
Ben wrote:I imagine that sw France has been pumping recently?


Oops, sorry Ben, didn't notice your question until now.

I'm not there any more, alas. I've been back in my full-time home in mid-Spain again since the start of September. Surinfg's a summers-only thing for me these days. Although I do spend July/August there every year, which is a consolation. Was quite a good summer this year - plenty of slabby days and not too many flat spells. Last year was epic though.

So I have no idea how the surf is in Seignosse right now, although it's the Quiksilver pro this week, so it'll be easy to find out on their webcast :)


Pumping I think.

It has been a really consistent September here. Probably one of the most consistent in my almost 40 years of surfing however no banner days. Which is just as well really as I am surfing poorly due to my enforced layoff.
You must miss easy access to the ocean but I guess central Spain has many charms too? I have only been to the Basque country and Barcelona. I have promised myself a few months to meander through it at some stage. Spain seems to have a lot of good skate terrain.
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