Bells beach, sunday arvo

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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Fri Jan 28, 2011 11:44 am

Mr J wrote: I think at the time stand-up shortboard surfing had been discovered as a practical way of surfing the urethane wheel technology was only just becoming available - so I'm not sure if pool skating could have come much earlier than it did? :

Its hard to imagine that a flatland skater would have had the foresight to try to skate in a pool if functional surfing were not around at the time.

Mr J wrote:George Greenough didn't stand up, and I wonder if he is given more credit than is due for the emergence of stand-up shortboarding? I believe he had inherited a comfortable amount of money and has never needed a real job, but to his crediti he didn't keep his work-shop experiments with different surfboard materials all to himself or just take a series of private holidays around the world :


An interesting comparison is to look at English history and our great inventors were usually the wealthy who had the time and available materials to experiment, so probably Greenough was privaledged. He was however a drop out and 'got straight F's at school but could build surfboards in woodshop - and the teacher was stoked too' (Crystal Voyager). He did invent the modern surfboard fin instead of the skeg and as you say he passed all his work onto McTavish so he could create the FPM's.

Mr J wrote:There are lots of people who played a significant role in surfboard design and the fibre glass and foam materials did provide a leap forward - Simmons was a pioneer of that technology.:


You are absolutely right, Simmons a surfer himself, again provided a leap forward but not in riding style.

Mr J wrote:I think Martin Potters aerials were no where near as spectacular and not covering the large distances that the aerial stars of today manage? :


I agree they were not but he is a good example of the first real noticeable cross over from skating to surfing as its hard to concieve a surfer would have attempted an aerial. I picked on Potter as he obviously became the first British World Champion and our magazines were full of pictures of him in the air (I had a poster of Carwyn Williams in the air on my wall).

Mr J wrote:But if I am to be critical of the modern surfboard airs and compare them with the skaters, first they have to go stinkbug (I understand that term as a wide stance that detracts from style, that sound right?) to get the ollie and land. Secondly like some of the skate moves they have oustretched arms and a body english that is more indicative of trying to control it rather than pure style, but the top skaters all seem to complete the landing part of their air/trick with a relaxed flourish which is known as "steez" - the modern air surfers - including the worlds very best, just don't have the equivalent of steez, the very nature of the surfboard means the body english has its emphasis doing whatever it takes to make it rather than style. Whereas some stylish surfers even have a slightly knock kneed back leg when they bottom turn.:


I agree completely and I think that is what I am noticing too. This is where longboarding and short boarding (surfing) vary considerably. If we look back to Mark Richards he has bags of style while pulling off the hot moves of the day but he has awkward hands (wounded seagull is the term normally used) and so I would rather watch Rabbit as he has a cool style. If you watch todays top surfers, you take no notice of their hands or body language as its the whole trick and 'making it' that catch your eye. In skating ironically that element of making the trick look casual (ie style) is there and will affect your appreciation of their riding skill!
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Sat Jan 29, 2011 2:34 am

I got some pics from the sesh posted at the start of this thread. A local photographer takes pics on good days and makes them available for ordinary people like me to purchase them - he makes some money and we get photos of ourselves that would normally be impossible for us to obtain - photographers don't go following me around :lol:

Plank wrote:
Mr J wrote:The ability to tap the power of the wave is what the skater doesn't have. Also there is no skate equivalent of that wonderful surfboard energy harnessing bottom turn - try descending a bowl on skateboard and then turning on the flat back up the wall with all body weight thrown into the turn - the skateboard will of course slide out. In comparison the surfboard fins at speed have massive grip and allow the turn back up the wave face


the memories are rushing back. :mrgreen:

I miss that feeling of harnessed power.


This is what I mean - can't carve like this without sliding out on a skateboard. Two shots from a sequence



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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Sat Jan 29, 2011 2:46 am

The pros use all that harnessed energy to head for the lip and smash it to pieces with the underneath of their surfboard or some amazing air move. I follow up the bottom turn with .... well nothing in particular :lol: on waves like this I'm just happy to make it :D maybe throw in a cutback or two further down the line.

Another wave, my "bend zee knees" style showing ;)


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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Sat Jan 29, 2011 3:01 am

surferscoob wrote:
Mr J wrote: I think at the time stand-up shortboard surfing had been discovered as a practical way of surfing the urethane wheel technology was only just becoming available - so I'm not sure if pool skating could have come much earlier than it did? :

Its hard to imagine that a flatland skater would have had the foresight to try to skate in a pool if functional surfing were not around at the time.
:

now that I've thought about it I think you are right that the idea came from shortboarding rather than a discovery built upon the new urethane technology.

surferscoob wrote:...
If we look back to Mark Richards he has bags of style while pulling off the hot moves of the day but he has awkward hands (wounded seagull is the term normally used) and so I would rather watch Rabbit as he has a cool style...:


despite his outstretched arms he still looked great, but I know what you mean. I consider what he was doing to be a combination style/technology discovery. He showed how small waves could be ripped up with speed and power on a twin fin with fins fairly far up the board (about 10 1/2") and close together in a narrowish tail. The original Steve Lis fish design - wide tail, fins far apart and much further back (something like 6 - 7" if memory serves me) was just as fast, but nowhere near as acrobatic. The shortboard single fins favoured by the other competitors at that time were slow in small waves.

The other stuff you wrote about Greenough is interesting, I didn't know that.
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Plank » Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:47 am

Those waves are fucking awesome Mr J.

Didn't Greenough's work evolve from his filming of the waves rather than performing tricks. I found his film inspiring at at time when I really felt an urge to surf but couldn't afford a surfboard or wetsuit. Got myself in the water on a lilo then an inflatable bodyboard and surfed. The surfboard followed not long after.

wounded seagull :oops: Karate stance stopped me doing this and also prevented any poo stance when i was more of a kook.
Mr J your stance isnt too bad but your bum looks like its stuck out a bit to far :wink: :)
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:51 am

Excellent shots Mr J....you sure the cameraman isn't following you? 8) Expect to see you on the cover of Surfer soon!!!
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:32 am

Plank wrote:...Mr J your stance isnt too bad but your bum looks like its stuck out a bit to far :wink: :)

:wink:

surferscoob wrote:Excellent shots Mr J....you sure the cameraman isn't following you? 8) Expect to see you on the cover of Surfer soon!!!


checked the letter box, no cheque from Surfer mag. None of the wettie manufacturers have contacted me regarding sponsorship either. I suppose no-one can be bothered to photo-shop some style into my bum :wink:
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:38 am

surferscoob wrote:...
Mr J wrote:....the modern air surfers - including the worlds very best, just don't have the equivalent of steez....:


I agree completely and I think that is what I am noticing too. This is where longboarding and short boarding (surfing) vary considerably.


I'm not much of a longboard enthusiast although I do take my 8' 4" HP longboard out in tiny waves occassionally, however this vid looks wonderful longboarding to me.

Apart from take off and trim (straight line it) there is nothing I can do like this surfer. I can't cross step or nose ride, but what I find particularly amazing is that this is a 38 lb traditional single fin and he can pivot it into a cut-back with no effort. When I'm cutting back on my 8' 4" lightweight HP its seems like the board is heaving round in a slow arc when compared to my HP shortboard, but this surfer has no problem with pivoting such a heavy board! Such a nice style too.

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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Mon Jan 31, 2011 6:23 pm

There is a lot of weight transfer going on heel to toe for him to make those turns which is something I also do although to a lesser degree since knackering my ankle. I now compensate by foot movements ie. placing my foot towards the rail or stepping forward mid turn to reduce the leverage on the tendon, meaning no doubt that my style has reduced because I am having to move around rather than making it look smooth whilst standing still with bent knees. He reminded me a little of Robert August.

The other similar characteristic with my longboard is the very large rocker which sacrifices a little speed but releases far better to make those turns. I have ridden tri-fin longboards and have to say the additional depth of a single fin is an advantage when making sharp turns especially when really cranking a cut back. A lot of the HP longboards in the shops have very slight rocker and must be very difficult to turn. My first board was a 6'8" pintail and from 1/3 back it had no rocker and I could not turn that any sense at all, but it was fast in a straight line....useless in most UK surf!

Mr. J a few years ago a shot like you posted would have been better than some of the UK mag covers!
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:09 pm

Plank wrote:...Didn't Greenough's work evolve from his filming of the waves rather than performing tricks. I found his film inspiring at at time when I really felt an urge to surf but couldn't afford a surfboard or wetsuit. Got myself in the water on a lilo then an inflatable bodyboard and surfed. The surfboard followed not long after. ..


I was thinking along similar lines and questioning the significance of Greenough's role in surfboard development. Hardly anyone uses the inflatable surfmats, kneeboarding is a minority surfing discipline. His flex "spoon" kneeboards with their very rounded hull surface was developed into a mini-mal sized board design known as the "hull" - its not really a displacement hull but has a lot of roll in the underneath and is designed to do full rail bottom turns rather than crank it from the tail - however thats a very esoteric design enjoyed by very few surfers today - I've never seen one in Aus but I have seen some in California at a gathering for surfboard design enthusiasts.

However Surferscoob nailed his significance - developed the modern surfboard fin and moved it away from that inflexible keel like thing known as a skeg - that is very significant.

http://www.surfresearch.com.au/sGreenough_George.html

and some articles by McTavish

http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1972o020 ... racks.html

http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1972o040 ... racks.html
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:29 pm

surferscoob wrote:....

The other similar characteristic with my longboard is the very large rocker which sacrifices a little speed but releases far better to make those turns. I have ridden tri-fin longboards and have to say the additional depth of a single fin is an advantage when making sharp turns especially when really cranking a cut back. A lot of the HP longboards in the shops have very slight rocker and must be very difficult to turn.

I see, I have ridden and measured a reasonable selection of shortboard rockers, but I don't have an appreciation of the effects of rocker on longboard due to my very limited longboard skills. So to avoid talking about something I don't understand I will limit myself to saying that I have witnessed all 3 types of longboard (single, thruster and cutaway single with sidebites) get surfed extremely well in a HP way.

surferscoob wrote:....
My first board was a 6'8" pintail and from 1/3 back it had no rocker and I could not turn that any sense at all, but it was fast in a straight line....useless in most UK surf!
...


I think such a board would be considered useless by modern standards anywhere in the world too! In defence of its designer rocker wasn't widely understood back then - the only reason why it might be considered acceptable elsewhere is that given a wave of sufficient power almost anything moves and responds!

A lot of the early thrusters were absolute rubbish, but there is no excuse for that now - tri-fin positions have been nailed down into a reasonably narrow range with adjustments for length and no conventional HP thruster shortboard has its tail rocker go much less than 2 1/4" or higher than 3" - those are fairly extreme figures. The pics of me from last Feb at the start of this thread are on a high tail rockered Bushman with 2 7/8" of tail rocker - a 6' 3" board. The ones I last posted are of my 6' 1" Byrne - 2 1/2" tail rocker - the difference is very significant and I bought the Bushman first and when I jumped on the Byrne the tail rocker felt so flat in comparison that I thought it was nearer 2 1/4". But 2 1/2" is very neutral

PS regarding your old achilles limitation - we do have to make do with what we got and work round our limitations - I have some fairly severe health limitations in the energy department which requires a very rigid lifestyle and Plank has his challenges too. But an achilles tear - can't it be re-habbed to close to its previous performance? I know nothing about this injury though.
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:50 pm

Mr J wrote:I think such a board would be considered useless by modern standards anywhere in the world too! In defence of its designer rocker wasn't widely understood back then - the only reason why it might be considered acceptable elsewhere is that given a wave of sufficient power almost anything moves and responds!

A lot of the early thrusters were absolute rubbish, but there is no excuse for that now - tri-fin positions have been nailed down into a reasonably narrow range with adjustments for length and no conventional HP thruster shortboard has its tail rocker go much less than 2 1/4" or higher than 3" - those are fairly extreme figures. The pics of me from last Feb at the start of this thread are on a high tail rockered Bushman with 2 7/8" of tail rocker - a 6' 3" board. The ones I last posted are of my 6' 1" Byrne - 2 1/2" tail rocker - the difference is very significant and I bought the Bushman first and when I jumped on the Byrne the tail rocker felt so flat in comparison that I thought it was nearer 2 1/4". But 2 1/2" is very neutral

PS regarding your old achilles limitation - we do have to make do with what we got and work round our limitations - I have some fairly severe health limitations in the energy department which requires a very rigid lifestyle and Plank has his challenges too. But an achilles tear - can't it be re-habbed to close to its previous performance? I know nothing about this injury though.


You are right Mr J my pintail was a very short lived stlye from the Islands but functional surfing ensured it disappeared very quickly because it did not perform. The modern tri-fin apart from a few minor tweaks over the past 20 years is as successful as the modern 'popsicle' skateboard...highly functional through evolution. It definitely does what is says on the tin and performs incredibly. It is purely my personal choice to persue a style suited to traditional longboarding which saw me veer away from shortboard surfing.

The snapped achillies had corrective surgery which basically means a permanent stitch in the tendon removing its elasticity, I read whilst recovering that even 5 years on. those having surgery were still making progress and must say this seems to be the case 2-1/2 years in. The major problem, which I guess we all face after an injury in middle age, is exteremely psychological and the added pressure of some injuries on every aspect of our lives let alone our surfing and skateboarding make us nervous to push it. The year before last I was content to just stand on the board again and get that feeling of riding a wave, last year I started to relax and do what comes naturally to my feet but would not force any manouvre still. Then of course I started to tentatively stand on a skateboard and try desparately to stay in my comfort zone, finding it difficult to justify pushing it but perhaps content to keep having fun......
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Wed Feb 02, 2011 9:22 am

surferscoob wrote:... The modern tri-fin apart from a few minor tweaks over the past 20 years is as successful as the modern 'popsicle' skateboard...highly functional through evolution. It definitely does what is says on the tin and performs incredibly. It is purely my personal choice to persue a style suited to traditional longboarding which saw me veer away from shortboard surfing.

yes, I also believe in following personal choice rather than feeling the need to follow a fashion. I'm not really performing on my shortboards, I just find them easier to manage - its a different sort of skill to turn a big longboard on a sixpence and something I can't do. The "oversize" HP tri-fin is what seems to work best for me at the moment. A lot of the enjoyment of surfing for me is understanding the design. From age 14 thru to about age 30 all my surfboards were home-made/self shaped, some of them were awful and probably held back my surfing but I'm not a pro so overall I would say its been a richer experience due to the extra design understanding I gained.

My two main rides are both pro models - Pancho Sullivan and Phil Macca - both these guys are power surfers and heavily built big blokes - in comparison I'm a little guy and in no way am I a power surfer. I don't for one minute think that owning their board shapes will help me surf like them, but I enjoy getting an understanding of what their equipment is about. The Pancho board by Jeff Bushman is I believe is an exact replicated shape and what Pancho used in competition, the Phil Macca model not exactly what Macca rides (I wrote to Byrne and was told it was the same template, but Macca was playing with different rocker and fin positions) the construction different too.

surferscoob wrote:... The major problem, which I guess we all face after an injury in middle age, is exteremely psychological and the added pressure of some injuries on every aspect of our lives let alone our surfing and skateboarding make us nervous to push it. The year before last I was content to just stand on the board again and get that feeling of riding a wave, last year I started to relax and do what comes naturally to my feet but would not force any manouvre still. Then of course I started to tentatively stand on a skateboard and try desparately to stay in my comfort zone, finding it difficult to justify pushing it but perhaps content to keep having fun......


I do feel responsibility to stay well (despite my health problems) and functional in my employment. I have a Transworld skateboarding trick tips DVD and I quite like the statement from Tim O'Connor - he says push it coz thats what skateboarding is all about, but trying something that might stop us from skateboarding forever is not worth it - and at our age it doesn't take too much to stop us from skateboarding forever! the trick tips DVD is also full of tricks that is impossibly difficult for me to even attempt (with the exception of the basic ollie), but makes good viewing!

whatever approach we take we are rolling the dice, but having fun is what I think its about too. One of the reasons why I started to focus on low grade street skating is coz it can be learned in small incremental steps, without the commit or fail approach that tranny tends to demand.
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Thu Feb 10, 2011 10:03 am

I have just watched 'A Sea for Yourself' by Hal Jepson, all very early 70's surfing and its damn good... Lots of North shore action but also loads of surf trips...its about 2 1/2 hours long! Its obviously filmed about the same time as 'Salt Water Wine'. The stand out (and one of my personal heroes) is Barry Kanaipuni at Sunset! Nobody performs a bottom turn like BK and style by the bucketload....... on one segment Hal' is showing drop-ins (being cut off by another surfer taking off in front of you) at Sunset but then comments BK isn't being cut off...... he rides back there anyway!
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Fri Feb 11, 2011 8:38 am

surferscoob wrote:I have just watched 'A Sea for Yourself' by Hal Jepson, all very early 70's surfing and its damn good... Lots of North shore action but also loads of surf trips...its about 2 1/2 hours long! ...


I don't think I have seen that. I may have seen Salt Water Wine, but I'm not sure and definately forgotten its content. My exposure to the media at that time was mainly the magazines. Did you aquire it recently on DVD?

I guess that being the North Shore they would have had such good waves and made the single fins work well?
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Fri Feb 11, 2011 9:49 am

I have Salt Water Wine on VHS video..... but it is about 20 or 30 years old :lol: I would of thought it is available on DVD somewhere....A Sea for Yourself is on DVD, I think it should be available on line. The swells were legendary at that time although the bigger waves at Banzai Pipeline are on Salt Water Wine for sure, there is also a great segment on Australian surfing.....oh and the soundtrack is awesome! (if you like the Stones, Cocker, Led Zep etc)

No doubt about it that they really make those single fins work but of course its all power turning and carving......
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Plank » Sat Feb 12, 2011 12:47 am

really want to try a single fin on my 7' 6".

i'd also like to use the surfboard again before I hit 35 :lol:
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Sat Feb 12, 2011 12:27 pm

Plank wrote:really want to try a single fin on my 7' 6".

i'd also like to use the surfboard again before I hit 35 :lol:


Depends when you are 35 I guess :lol: Don't worry there is surfing for over 35's though..... your best years are to come! (AW)
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Sun Feb 13, 2011 6:51 am

Plank wrote:really want to try a single fin on my 7' 6".

What I am about to say is subjective and I welcome any disagreement or alternative point of view:

When it comes to shortboarding and a 7' 6" is sort of a shortboard (I consider mini-mals to start at about 8' - a rounded nose board that is shorter is sometimes known as an "egg"):
when short-boarding multi-fins always beat single fins for performance. I think the multi Vs single argument is not so simple with longboarding, but I don't know much about that subject. SurferScoob does though :)

This is particularly true when the waves are not perfect - its sometimes necessary to "make" speed with pumping when the wave is going through a flat spot. Multi fins are better at pumping speed back into a slowing board. In other words expect to go slower on a single. Also sloppy waves suit a shortboard better than a mal - its easier to find little pockets of speed on a shorty when the waves are messy and aren't lining up.

Purely out of practical reasons it may not be so easy to put a single in your board? If its got standard thruster boxes then middle box will be too short and too far back to house a single, so you would need to rout it out and install a big single fin box. What you could try is the "widow maker" setup - thruster configuration with bigger centre fin/smaller side fins. I used to have the Donald Takayama 7' 10" egg in widow maker - it was standard with the surftech model. Very HP for an egg - back fin was in a box bigger than thruster box though with some adjustment with a screwdriver. Widow maker is best for good lined up waves - standard thruster is better for a wider range of conditions, but a widow maker will beat a single for speed. I only ever took my Takayama egg out in good point break (Steamer Lane Santa Cruz)

This was Bell's yesterday just after a came out. Just before I went in a mate said to me "are you going in? I've seen you go in worse than that :lol:"

I was the only one in - waves were 2' and my sesh lasted about 45 min - that was non-stop paddling against the current from the windblown conditions so I was tired after even that short time. I was able to find a few of those pockets of speed I talked about on my shorty so it was worth it. My mates and everyone else were too spoiled to go in that - they live near there, whereas I'm a weekend warrior and have to make the most of it. There would have been plenty of surfers in the nearby beachbreaks later in the day though (Bells is a reef - and the inside point is called Rincon - thats where I surfed yesterday). IMHO can't beat the shortboard multi fin in windblown slop like that - get a lot of that on the west coast UK, I don't know about the east coast UK. Pic of yesterday below. Much better waves today, but i didnt get a pic.



Plank wrote:i'd also like to use the surfboard again before I hit 35 :lol:


whats your estimate for getting back on a board - wheeled or finned?
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:43 pm

Are you out of action Plank? Hope you are back on board soon!

Single versus multi fins now theres a discussion point :lol: :lol: ......... I got involved in a lengthy discussion between the owner of Piran surf shop and his son 25 years ago on this subject. He and I were definitely fans of singles back then and his son gave up the argument, but surfing was different then. I think it is obviously the case that three fins are generally better than a single now....however it is dictated by riding style. If for instance you wish to carve a turn instead of slash, then a single is possibly better because of its additional depth but personal preference and feel come into it in a big way. Certainly people like Bertleman and Kanaipuni back in the 70's have shown two differing radical styles of riding where a single fin can be pushed to its limit and still not spin out but Mark Richards could pull off turns in more challenging positions on the wave but mere mortals would spin out on a twinnie.

When I used to short board and had an aggressive approach I still span out the board despite being a tri, when laying it on its side and a single or twin would have been no different, but now I longboard I am no longer trying to lay the board on its side but have a more upright stance so a single is fine and has less resistance to turning than three.

In sloppy waves its possibly honours even I would say, a young fit surfer would make catching power pockets look easy but a slightly overweight middle aged surfer would cruise and have fun on a longboard :mrgreen:
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:57 am

surferscoob wrote:I got involved in a lengthy discussion between the owner of Piran surf shop and his son 25 years ago on this subject. He and I were definitely fans of singles back then and his son gave up the argument, but surfing was different then. ...:

Simon Anderson won Bells 30 yrs ago 1981 and introduced the world to the thruster - IMHO it was 5 yrs+ before the thruster got built consistently properly - unsuitable outlines and fins too far back are 2 mistakes I have seen and tried. I stayed on twins until the late 80s due to having tried some bad thrusters. For an ordinary person like me the twin always holds in better than the single, but it will sometimes go into a controllable sideways drift - which actually feels quite nice - last time I owned/rode a twin (alternative board - not my main ride) was 2005 approx - self built with Gary McNabb design twin fins (Nectar surfboards) from Future Fins.

However I'm writing from a shortboard centric pt of view, so its subjective and you are quite right - its all about maximising fun. Whatever works best for the individual is the best board. No point in placing ourselves on a board that is too small and bogs down and stalls, or that feels too squirrely to be in control. Not many of my mates ride shortboards (they are all about my age) and they are all very competent surfers who can handle some challenging conditions - I've listed the boards before in an earlier post on this thread - mid-length and longboards. Only one chooses to ride a single (traditional longboard).
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:42 am

Here's a pic for contemplation Mr J...... My father and his mate at Bournemouth December 1972.....check out his board on the right (home made) based on the Bonzer tri fin! Image
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Plank » Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:35 pm

^^^^ bit of history right there.

Image
here a pic of my pressure cracks :lol:


can find a fulll length pic of my board. it here on roger coopers site. 10th from the bottom, purple rails. mines green.
http://www.rogercoopersurfboards.com/bo ... e.asp?id=2

me taking a stroll
Image


been off out of the ocean for nearly 5 years and then last june suffered 6 segmental fracture to me tibia and fibula after a 5 foot mini ramp accident. :lol:
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:47 pm

Plank wrote:^^^^ bit of history right there.

Image
here a pic of my pressure cracks :lol:


can find a fulll length pic of my board. it here on roger coopers site. 10th from the bottom, purple rails. mines green.
http://www.rogercoopersurfboards.com/bo ... e.asp?id=2

me taking a stroll
Image


been off out of the ocean for nearly 5 years and then last june suffered 6 segmental fracture to me tibia and fibula after a 5 foot mini ramp accident. :lol:


Blimey....been years since I surfed Polzeath!

Sheesh....OUCH!!!
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:41 am

surferscoob wrote:Here's a pic for contemplation Mr J...... My father and his mate at Bournemouth December 1972.....check out his board on the right (home made) based on the Bonzer tri fin! ..


1972 - I didn't start surfing until 1976. I didn't realise the bonzer had been invented then. Your Dad and his mate were on the cutting edge of board design!
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:52 am

Plank wrote:^^^^can find a fulll length pic of my board. it here on roger coopers site. 10th from the bottom, purple rails. mines green.
http://www.rogercoopersurfboards.com/bo ... e.asp?id=2

me taking a stroll
...been off out of the ocean for nearly 5 years and then last june suffered 6 segmental fracture to me tibia and fibula after a 5 foot mini ramp accident. :lol:


I wouldn't worry about the stress fractures on the underneath of your surfboard, I don't think it will waterlog. FCS tri-fin? as I was saying earlier, converting it to a single would be a big deal and maybe not worth the effort unless you really want to experiment.

I looked at the photos of Polzeath on wannasurf - looks really nice. I have never surfed there.
http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Europe/UK ... index.html

on the subject of skating: yes, mini-ramps are hazardous. How about joining us on the low grade street thread when you are back on board? Street skating is really safe :lol:

You don't actually have to be good at street skating to join the low grade street team on that thread, just exhibit a willingness to post up some video of ones efforts. Street beginners are welcome and we are accepting new members :D No previous street experience necessary. A willingness to jump off shit (anything from curb height or even less) and an interest in ollies is an advantage.
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:59 am

Mr J wrote:
surferscoob wrote:Here's a pic for contemplation Mr J...... My father and his mate at Bournemouth December 1972.....check out his board on the right (home made) based on the Bonzer tri fin! ..


1972 - I didn't start surfing until 1976. I didn't realise the bonzer had been invented then. Your Dad and his mate were on the cutting edge of board design!


Shame they both had kids and were distracted from carrying on lol....

Another point of interest, Dads mates board on the left was made by TIKI a couple years earlier and 'Norm' wanted white fading to green rails. At that time boards were coloured using dye in the resin but they could not do that to produce the fade, so they experimented with aerosol paint.....making his the first board they had made using spray!
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Mr J » Thu Feb 17, 2011 8:40 am

surferscoob wrote:...Shame they both had kids and were distracted from carrying on lol....

Another point of interest, Dads mates board on the left was made by TIKI a couple years earlier and 'Norm' wanted white fading to green rails. At that time boards were coloured using dye in the resin but they could not do that to produce the fade, so they experimented with aerosol paint.....making his the first board they had made using spray!


well you got to carry on with the surfing - when do you think you will get in next?

sounds like they were producing ground-breaking stuff for hobbyists and early UK board manufacturers.

My last twin fin - the one with the Gary McNabb design futures fins - on this link:

http://www.quivermag.com/node/1063

I only used it in Ocean Beach, San Francisco when Santa Cruz was too small or very small to surf, or there was an unusual wind direction (East). A high percentage of the time Ocean Beach is too big and blown out to surf, particularly in winter. Very powerful waves even when under head height.
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Ben » Tue May 31, 2011 5:23 pm

Surfer/skaters through the years.....the best subject ever. Some really insightful views. I will take a dig when I get some time.

It is such a great subject but studiously ignored by the forum members over the years.


I always meant to come back to this subject but this article on Surfline is a very good start.

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/the-surf-skate-connection-chapter-one_56105/
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Plank » Tue May 31, 2011 8:11 pm

a picture of Alva doing air with Jim Morrison in the background fucking awesome or what
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Tue May 31, 2011 8:31 pm

Hmmmmm...... Morrison died around 1971 and Alva hit air in 1977, something not quite right there if my memory is correct :?
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Plank » Tue May 31, 2011 8:48 pm

i was thinking the same and kickflips :roll: :@~
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Ben » Tue May 31, 2011 9:20 pm

Tony invented the Doors you know. :wink:
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:45 am

^^^^^^ :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby Plank » Sat Jun 04, 2011 12:11 am

Ben wrote:Tony invented the Doors you know. :wink:

:lol:

and the frames and window and the dave clark 5 and rumour has it he had a high level of input on the skylight.
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Re: Bells beach, sunday arvo

Postby surferscoob » Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:30 am

Back on the style vibe.... I found the clip from fantastic Plastic Machine of Bob McTavish showing the way with his vee bottom in 1969..... a year later the Aussies were riding 6' stubby boards and the rest as they say is history!! For me McTavish had more style than Nat Young who looks a bit 'choppy' with his hands by comparison. Anyway hope you enjoy some pure functional surfing

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