0.5ft @18secs !!

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0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Cosmic Bandito » Sun Aug 28, 2011 2:19 pm

MSW predicting a swell height of 0.5ft rising to 2ft over 3 days with a 16 - 18sec period. Any guesses what thats gonna produce, with an off shore wind ?
Good/bad/MSW talking out their arse?
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Ben » Sun Aug 28, 2011 8:27 pm

Very difficult to call. Is this the reminder of the swell from the Caribbean? I suspect it will be flat. The swell will be weak as well as very small.
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Ben » Thu Sep 01, 2011 5:47 pm

MSW talking out of arses...completely flat here. Maybe the far west got something?
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Cosmic Bandito » Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:25 pm

No. :evil: Flat as. :evil: If it froze over you could skate it. :evil: I think it got to about knee high at Sennen.

Meant to be picking up over weekend but the goddamn winds going round as well.
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Ben » Mon Sep 12, 2011 6:47 pm

The ocean certainly started to move around on Sunday. :D but the wind blew also. :( I think Cornwall seemed to come off better.

Image

St Agnes
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby BOWL TROLL » Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:41 pm

I see you recovered quicker than expected, nice new blond hairdo as well hmmmm (mid life crisis) :lol:
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Ben » Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:58 pm

Its not so much that the guy is blond but he has quite a lot of hair also. I can wish. :lol:

Just so you are sure ....the surfer is not St Agnes but the name of the place where this was taken is St Agnes. Putsbourgh did not look like this on Sunday. :(
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby BOWL TROLL » Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:18 pm

Thought you might av ad a Wayne Rooney :lol:
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Ben » Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:30 pm

That is a trollish response.
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Mr J » Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:50 am

Ben, that St Agnes wave looks incredbly heavy for Cornwall - is it a reef or beachbreak - there is a channel to paddle out in?
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Ben » Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:41 pm

Mr J wrote:Ben, that St Agnes wave looks incredbly heavy for Cornwall - is it a reef or beachbreak - there is a channel to paddle out in?


St Agnes is a very small bay which breaks when there is a medium to large swell running. It fortuitously funnels the prevailing Sw wind down the steep valley to give semi offshore conditions when nearly all other beaches are closed out and blown out. It is best at mid tide. At low there can be some exciting lefts and rights but they are mainly very heavy closeouts. The right in the picture is the main wave. It is fairly easy to get to by hugging the cliffs on the left side as you paddle out.

Image


The right can really hold serious size .Aggie certainly does pack a punch. Sometime in the 80s I got a hold down there. I was level with the headland and ended up sufacing in the shorepond. .... 200yds under water? I saw the horizion go dark blue and paddled out much further than the pack feeling smug, only to find myself in exactly the wrong place.If memory serves that was September too.Worst hold down of my life.

Here are some pics of some of the recent beatings it handed out.

http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPh ... oId=235694

I only surf there once a year now if I am visiting my Mum in Cornwall, The trouble is it gets very crowded and has a very local s only vibe,
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Ben » Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:47 pm

Sorry I have not actually answered your question. It is beach break really but the right is formed by the interaction of the swell and a number of large rocks just to the right of the take off spot. I think the smallness of the bay has a lot to do with the shape and ferocity of the place.
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Ben » Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:53 pm

1.5 ft @ 17 secs for Sunday pm. What do you reckon?
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Cosmic Bandito » Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:29 pm

Ben wrote:1.5 ft @ 17 secs for Sunday pm. What do you reckon?


Well Gwithian turned out to be head high with double-head sets rolling through and a monster paddle out due to the onshores. Good duck-diving practice and fun in the sun but i'm gonna ache t'morra. :D
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Re: 0.5ft @18secs !!

Postby Ben » Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:34 pm

2 foot of crap here. Amazing the difference that 100 miles makes.
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